Thursday, November 29, 2012
Lost in the Palace of the Lost city
I am generally not a fan of man- made wonders.
But I was in South Africa recently and was overwhelmed by the incredible Palace
of the Lost City in Sun City. This over-the-top creation is nothing but
grandiose. You can stay busy in this man- made extravaganza for days.
I
opened my windows to tribal- style cabanas and a swimming pool with a giant sun
mosaic, water spouting out of seashells and waterfalls roaring from every corner.
The rotunda ceiling in the lobby with a jungle
motif alive with animals and birds was created by five artists ‘in the same way
as Michelangelo painted the Sistine chapel!
Stone
lions and cheetahs stare from the rooftops, there are colonnades, gigantic
chandeliers and soaring arches, wherever you look. The theme is based on a legend
of a North African tribe which built its city here and which was destroyed in a
volcanic explosion- a lost empire which was re-created out of the dry bush
veldt.
The
details astounded me: 6500 light fittings, 50,000 square metres of carpets, a
table made from eight different kinds of wood costing 3. 5 million rand,
tapestries woven by two women from Swaziland over two years and 3400 square
metres of murals all creating a fantasy land of gargantuan proportions!
This is the
most famous resident celebrity- a life- sized bronze model of Shawu, one
of Africa’s most famous tuskers of the Kruger National Park re-created by the
South African sculptor Danie de Jager. Shawu with his leathery skin and cracked
feet had the most massive ivory tusks in Africa and died of old bullet wounds
in 1982.
Mounds
of cereals, luscious piles of fruits, quails eggs, cheeses that could feed a
continent, a waffle station-the breakfast spread in the massive over-the-top
Crystal Court, is fit for a king.
Looking
down from the King’s Tower at the panoramic views of the resort, with its lush
vegetation and water bodies, I find it hard to believe that it was a rocky
near-desert plain twenty years ago.
We
learnt to Segway around the property, trying to balance and enjoy the
views of the Gary Player- designed golf courses, one with leathery crocodiles
sunning themselves in a pit at the 13th hole.
To
taste raw Africa outside the resort we took a trip to the 550 square kilometre Pilanesberg Game
Reserve just outside the resort, set in the crater of an extinct volcano and
even spotted the Big 5!
Is the Palace brash and commercial? Yes..but
it must be seen to be believed! Great for families with kids, as there are lots
of activities that can keep them occupied.
Saturday, November 3, 2012
Time warp at Ahilya Fort
One of the most atmospheric hotels that I have been to
is the Ahilya Fort Hotel
in Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh.
Ahilya Fort was built in the simple Wada style of Maratha
architecture- with wooden pillars and supporting beams made of lime and bricks.
Today, part of it has been converted into an atmospheric and intimate heritage
hotel with fourteen tastefully decorated rooms by Prince Richard Holkar, her
descendent and the son of the last Maharajah of Indore.
The hotel is a splendid maze of low, white washed buildings,
hidden terraces and turrets, corridors and lush gardens.
Rattan furniture painted black and white, wooden ceilings,
piles of books almost everywhere-on eclectic subjects from history and art to
philosophy and fiction, an internet room with an antique door, two adorable
pugs called Yoda and Alhambra...the ambience created is warm and cosy.
Gods and goddesses smeared with vermillion, urns and
planters filled with flower petals, paintings of local scenes and sepia
photographs of the Holkar family all create a back-in-time feel…
Each room is unique and is named after the tree that it
overlooks-I am in the Gulmohar Room with a lounger and antique desk, soft
Chanderi quilts on my bed, marigolds in brass vessels and old style fans. The
bathroom has modern plumbing but the endearing details continue- a brass bucket
and lota with rough stone floors.
Delicious meals are served alfresco in different places- in
the terrace overlooking the Narmada or the courtyard garden of the erstwhile
cow shed or the lush Poshakwada filled with greenery.
Come night, Ahilya Fort takes on a bewitching look. Oil
lamps are lit everywhere, casting small, warm pools of orange light and
creating a dramatic stage for aperitifs.
There is the Lingarchan courtyard where Ahilya Bai used to
conduct prayer services and had hundreds of Shiva lingams...today it has two
quaint rooms called Neem and Imli with window seats that have panoramic views
of the Narmada.
I took a boat ride on the Narmada at sunset and was
bewitched.
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