Showing posts with label India. Show all posts
Showing posts with label India. Show all posts
Saturday, February 9, 2013
DESERT SYMPHONY
One of the most interesting properties that I have visited in
the recent past is the Serai ( part of the Relais and Chateaux group) which has
21 air conditioned tents set in a hundred acres of scrubby terrain in the heart
of the Thar Desert, a half hour drive from Jaisalmer.
The whole resort is built out of honey coloured sandstone and
pearly white canvas and the Zen- like spaces are furnished with local artifacts
like tall black urns with reeds, camel statues and durries. The furniture is
all collapsible and compact and every piece is packed and put in storage when
the camp closes for the summer.
My swish tent suite with high ceilings and windows with nets had
a Victorian study, throw cushions in brilliant indigo, a huge bed on a stone
platform and a fantasy-in-stone bathroom with two stylish basins and a rain
shower.
I just loved the small
details: brass service buttons to summon your personal butler or housekeeping,
monogrammed paper with camels embossed on it, novels bound in vellum, leather
pouches to hold a torch and a hair dryer, glass stopper decanters with
citronella based products.
The focal
point of the resort is an elevated infinity pool modelled on the lines of a
step well or a baoli with canopied
loungers on all sides
The food at the Serai was an eclectic mix of Western and Indian
specialities. The menus varied with every meal, and offered a wide choice,
ranging from cold soups and salads, to a Wild Mushroom risotto and traditional
Rajasthani dishes. I just loved this Rajasthani Thali.
The staff was in traditional attire - with a multi-coloured saafa or turban and the managers in
Khaki.
The Serai even has a Spa
created by Raison d’Etre, one of the leading Spa companies in the world, housed
in tents of course. My feet were bathed in a sandstone basin of warm water and
in the soft glow of candlelight, skilled hands rubbed me with a ground mixture of tulsi, saffron and honey in a
sesame oil base.
The best experience that I had was my own private sun downer
excursion- a cross country drive on a
desert jeep with a butler and driver, through small villages or dhanis with mud houses, children
waving, men with turbans sitting under trees and camels munching on the ker trees.
At the end of the drive, I had
my private dune, a snack table and a
drink, watching the sun go down!
Saturday, November 3, 2012
Time warp at Ahilya Fort
One of the most atmospheric hotels that I have been to
is the Ahilya Fort Hotel
in Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh.
Ahilya Fort was built in the simple Wada style of Maratha
architecture- with wooden pillars and supporting beams made of lime and bricks.
Today, part of it has been converted into an atmospheric and intimate heritage
hotel with fourteen tastefully decorated rooms by Prince Richard Holkar, her
descendent and the son of the last Maharajah of Indore.
The hotel is a splendid maze of low, white washed buildings,
hidden terraces and turrets, corridors and lush gardens.
Rattan furniture painted black and white, wooden ceilings,
piles of books almost everywhere-on eclectic subjects from history and art to
philosophy and fiction, an internet room with an antique door, two adorable
pugs called Yoda and Alhambra...the ambience created is warm and cosy.
Gods and goddesses smeared with vermillion, urns and
planters filled with flower petals, paintings of local scenes and sepia
photographs of the Holkar family all create a back-in-time feel…
Each room is unique and is named after the tree that it
overlooks-I am in the Gulmohar Room with a lounger and antique desk, soft
Chanderi quilts on my bed, marigolds in brass vessels and old style fans. The
bathroom has modern plumbing but the endearing details continue- a brass bucket
and lota with rough stone floors.
Delicious meals are served alfresco in different places- in
the terrace overlooking the Narmada or the courtyard garden of the erstwhile
cow shed or the lush Poshakwada filled with greenery.
Come night, Ahilya Fort takes on a bewitching look. Oil
lamps are lit everywhere, casting small, warm pools of orange light and
creating a dramatic stage for aperitifs.
There is the Lingarchan courtyard where Ahilya Bai used to
conduct prayer services and had hundreds of Shiva lingams...today it has two
quaint rooms called Neem and Imli with window seats that have panoramic views
of the Narmada.
I took a boat ride on the Narmada at sunset and was
bewitched.
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