DRIVING ALONG THE CAUSEWAY COASTAL ROUTE IN IRELAND

Ladder farms

Windswept cliffs and unspoilt beaches, sprinkled with atmospheric forts and castles, one of the most scenic
 drives that I have been on is the Causeway Coastal drive from   Belfast Lough to the Giant Causeway and the walled city of London Derry. There are a succession of sleepy, desolate fishing hamlets and spick and span towns- each with a unique history peppered with legends of giants, ghosts and fairies. This is the land of the ice gouged valleys or the nine glens of Antrim. The characteristic U shaped valleys have given rise to the ‘ladder farms’ that we see- vertical stripes of holdings running down the slopes to the valley which give each farm an equal share of lowland pasture, hill ground and mountain grazing.

Carnlough Harbour The picturesque village of Carnlough and its harbour dotted with red and green boats has a piece of history: The Londonderry Arms Hotel, an old coaching inn

here was once owned by Sir Winston Churchill himself.

Cushendall with its giant mural of hurling Cushendall is a town with Georgian buildings, where three glens or valleys come together in a sheltered bay. A bright mural of the local sport, hurling, one of the fastest ball games in the world, greets us here.The dramatic, mysterious Lougharema or the Vanishing Lake which is a mud encrusted valley on a dry day and becomes a lake teeming with fish when it rains. When the lake dries the fish hide in the limestone caverns below the limestone. And of course there’s an Irish yarn! Locals say that it’s haunted by the ghost of Colonel Mc Neil and his horses who drowned here in 1888 when the water levels rose abruptly!

Dunluce Castle There is the atmospheric skeletal remains of the 17th century Dunluce castle which tethers dramatically on a rocky promontory above the jagged coast. This was the stomping ground of early Vikings and Christians. Ships from the Spanish Armada once floundered off the coast here.

 

Bushmills Town famous for its Scotch distillery which has been making whiskey from 1600s making it the oldest licensed distillery in the world. People on the banks of the St Columb’s Rill River have been making whiskey- uisce beatha or the water of life for more than 400 years. . Stay in the atmospheric Bushmills Inn, a re-created coaching inn with individual white washed rooms named after Irish whiskeys.

Portrush town Portrush is the resort town of the district: amusement arcades, rides and seaside kitsch along with the largest number of camper holiday homes.

A spectacular sandy beach like the arc of the moon spreads out like a Japanese fan -it’s the White park bay with ancient dunes and rare orchids.The climax of the route is at the UNESCO site The Giant’s causeway- a surreal, bizarre scene out of an alien planet-geometric, perfectly symmetric honeycomb of gargantuan basalt columns arranged like stepping stones. The result of a volcanic explosion or as the legend goes the result of the fight between two giants? Driving on the Causeway Coastal Route is definitely one of the things to do before you die!

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TRAVELS IN CANADA

There are places that have been on my wish-list for ages and then I have the opportunity to travel there...there are others that have never been on my radar and I am awestruck by their beauty... Western Canada was certainly one of those destinations that I did not expect much from...But came back seduced by her charms... Among the many experiences that I had there, the following do STAND OUT: BANFF TOWN: Set in the middle of National Park territory, this tourist friendly village with great restaurants (even an Indian one), close-to-nature feel, and a meandering river has the fabulous Bow Falls and a Fairmont property (with some ghost stories). Fairmont properties around the world are after all, iconic. In a town with so many trees and trails, it’s usual to spot an animal or two as you walk along the streets which are by the way named after animals (yes, there are Moose, Caribou, and Wolf streets with sewer covers to match). Surrounded by snow capped mountains this is a town that charms without trying. ICEFIELDS PARKWAY: An amazing drive through the Rockies from Lake Louise to Jasper for over 230 kms- where every bend brought us new vistas, a lake, a waterfall or a bear or big horned sheep! The thrill of seeing a bear in the wild, walking on a glacier and being surrounded by constant, undying beauty made this road trip a winner. LAKE SONG: Pyramid, Maligne, Medicine and Patricia Lakes: Picture perfect reflections and glass like surfaces...these lakes are truly something. Framed by wisps of wild pine like a cloak of iridescent green and an amphitheatre of rugged peaks, these lakes are picture postcards. Medicine Lake, the source of many Indian myths and legends, is a lake that disappears in to an underground system for almost half the year. LAKE LOUISE: This is in the heart of the Banff National Park and the Fairmont Lake Louise has a vantage location overlooking the near-frozen lake. One of the ‘wow’ moments. There is the view of the lake surrounded by the Victoria glacier and the spruce covered mountains- the combination of luxury in wilderness was unique. I love my creature comforts! ZIP LINING IN WHISTLER: Whistler in British Columbia is very Swiss in character- chalets, window boxes with geraniums and tulips and an outdoorsy feel. Our dose of adventure here was zip lining over a valley through a forest. Unforgettable moments...

BIG CITY HIGH: Vancouver’s setting was spectacular- a stellar combination of Sea, land and mountains. If gentrified areas appeal to you, there are plenty here like Gastown or Granville Island. What really appealed to me in this city were their twin obsessions of food and exercise! Definitely a city on my places to re-visit!

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SLOVENIA- GREAT EMERGING DESTINATION

This pint sized country sandwiched between Italy and Croatia is a stunner. It joined the EU in 1994 and adopted the Euro in 2007- it is one of the most affordable European countries that I have visited. Why is Slovenia so special? I love countries that offer a great diversity in terrain over a small distance to cover- Slovenia has the Julian Alps, spectacular lakes, phenomenal caves and castles, a little Adriatic coastline thrown in, even a wine growing region, some three thousand- plus churches and monasteries and some stunning architecture. Slovenia is also one of the greenest European countries (about 60% of the country is covered with forests)- A perfect short break destination. As a vegetarian I also found that the country offered a good variety of options and some fine wines. The highest peak Mount Triglav is a national symbol found even on the flag and attracts hikers and climbers. The Venetians once controlled the south west of the country and left their mark on its architecture. My pick of the Must-Sees of Slovenia –

LJUBLJANA:

A melting-pot of different cultures, with a medieval castle, statues of dragons, and candy coloured Baroque buildings Ljubljana (pronounced Lyoobliana), the Capital city, is truly fairy tale land. There are decorative Bridges over the Ljubljnaca River, cobblestone alleys and a café culture with a Bohemian vibe. Preseren Square is the heart of the city filled with street performers, musicians and milling crowds Much of Ljubljana’s architecture is the work of master architect Joze Plecnik. Visit the distinctive Triple Bridge, the churches and the university library which are his handiwork.

Walk up the hill to Ljubljana Castle and climb the tower for a wondrous view of the city with its orange roofs, the green river and the distant Julian Alps. Take a river cruise to the Botanical gardens admiring the willow lined banks and the artworks on the walls. Walk through the eclectic flea market south of the Triple Bridge and pick up wild honey, decorative glass, painted wooden toys.

LAKE BLED AND TRIGLAV NATIONAL PARK:

 A glassy emerald lake ringed by forests, a picture perfect island perched in the centre with a dainty baroque church and a forbidding medieval castle on a rock crag overlooking the lake like a protective guardian. Bled castle which is a storybook castle- complete with ramparts, towers and moat and Disneyesque red conical brick roofs. The Triglav National Park is a hiker’s paradise with lakes, waterfalls and wildlife. Spend at least one night in Bled though it can be done as a day trip from Ljubljana.
                                                     

POSTONJA CAVES AND PRETJAMA CASTLE:

 Slovenia is famous for its peculiar karst or limestone landscapes and caves. There are more than 8000 caves all over this country and caving is a much enjoyed local pastime. Stretching over more than 20 kilometres, the Postojna caves in Slovenia is breathtaking. There is a miniature, open narrow gauge train which ferries the tourists through an artificial tunnel. There are all kinds of fanciful shapes which were pointed out by our guide- some look like animals, some like birds, there are sheets and translucent curtains, even razor thin spaghetti on the ceiling, Predjama castle, close by is wedged tight into a rocky cliff 100 metres high. The castle hosts the Erasmus Knights Tournament in the month of August every year. This is a re-creation of medieval games complete with people in period costumes, archery, swordplay, and jousts.

PORTOROZ:

                                                                                                                                                        

Portoroz is a relaxing seaside getaway touted to be the Slovenian Monaco. So if casinos and a swinging beach life is your style, head here!

                                                                                                                                                                     

MARIBOR:

This is Slovenia’s second largest city but feels like a small town. It has medieval churches, castles and mansions and it’s the European capital of Culture in 2012. There are wine cellars, even an old synagogue and an excellent Old Town.
                                                                                                                                                                  

PIRAN:

Narrow streets, compact houses, and a Mediterranean feel, this town is not only geographically close to Italy, its architecture is heavily influenced by the Venetian republic. It is a walled city with numerous churches and squares. Get a feel of the place by sitting in a cafe and watching the Adriatic sunset. And be sure to taste the local chocolate made with the local salt( yes!) from the salt pans nearby.                                                         

CELJE:

This medieval city with a city wall and ramparts, the past residences of the Counts and princes and 18th and 19th century facades looming over the picturesque Savinja River, has to be visited just for its architecture. The largest fortress in Slovenia, is on a hill. Among other sights, you can see the Roman remains of this town. Celje has many thermal springs which are located a stone’s throw from the town.

There are many more worthy sights in Slovenia like the Skokjan Caves, Lake Bohinj, Lipica famous for its horses, the Vintgar and the Tomin Gorges. Do put them on your itinerary if you have the time.

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THE RAW TRUTH

When I was in Ghent, Belgium a couple of weeks back, our local guide ordered a dish which I was not familiar with. Beef Tartar- which consisted of raw beef, minced and then mixed with a raw egg, some mustard, pepper and Worchester sauce and eaten with a side of fries. I then found out that it’s a very common dish served in America too! Why Tartar, I wondered, and my research led me to very interesting facts. The Oxford Dictionary says that a Tartar is a person who is fierce and difficult to deal with... The Tartars were nomadic horsemen of Turkish- Mongol descent who controlled and terrorised a large part of Central Europe in the 13th century. They pillaged homes and spread fear. Lore has it that the name Tartar originated from the people’s cries- as they heard the trrtrr of the hooves and said that the ‘ trrtrr’ people were coming! Another version has it that its origin is the Latin word ‘Tartarus’, which means savage or barbaric.

The origin of the dish? They say that the Tartars tenderised and marinated the horse meat by placing it under their saddles. As they rode horses all day, they ate this, cutting it into small bits and adding some pepper and spices. I also read another version, which says that this was a misinterpretation: the horsemen did place the meat under their saddles, but this was to treat the horses’ sores! I am inclined to believe the first version;maybe all their aggression and power stemmed from the energy source of raw meat and spices? Reports suggest that this raw meat recipe was carried by German soldiers to their country and was the origin of hamburgers and steaks!

There’s also Tartar Sauce that we are familiar with- mayonnaise with pickled cucumber, capers, onions and Dijon Mustard, commonly served with fish. The French call it Sauce tartare- loosely translated, tartare means rough..the tartars were after all considered rough and savage!

Dishes centred on raw meat exist in almost every culture- Carpaccio and Sashimi, for example. Of course there are the inherent dangers of contamination in raw meat and to some people the very idea of ‘raw’ is nauseous. And in a totally unconnected aside. does this have any connection with the dental tartar- the salts of tartaric acid deposited on our teeth? Words..words they fascinate me!

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FLUID PERFORMANCE

One of the absolute must-sees of a trip to Vietnam is a traditional water puppet show. We saw one at the Golden Dragon Theatre at Ho Chi Minh City. The water puppet show dates back to the 11th century and had its beginnings in the delta of the Red River where flooded paddy fields became stages. The stage is set on murky water and the puppeteers are behind a bamboo screen manipulating a complex system of strings and bamboo poles.

There’s a live orchestra of musicians in resplendent traditional costumes playing traditional instruments like a two string violin, cymbal, flutes and drums. The puppets are made of special fig wood (which is light and easy to carve) and coated with waterproof paints.

Dragons belch fire and cavort, men row boats over stormy waters, phoenix fight, and mythical goddesses preen as statuesque women walk with baskets of fruit piled on their heads. There are vignettes of rural life, legends, fishing, folk tales and even historical tales and the children in the front rows laugh with glee as water splashes on to them! The Dance of the Fairies is a legend about the creation of the country.

In the end the five puppeteers come out and take a bow, knee deep in water. Truly fascinating experience!

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